![]() Just the right amount of details to make it interesting but not get in the way of this beautiful denim. A very well balanced combination of slub, nep and hair. The Denim Hounds First Impressions: Wow! Even with all that has been said about how great this denim is, I was still impressed when I first held it in my hands. This combination makes the perfect denim clothes.” ~ Tanuki We admit that we do not have expertise in European/western cuts and styles, so we are, for first time, reaching out to partner with European experts for cuts, fits and design. What they make with Kibata follows a formula developed through time to avoid the problems that other makers have. The main denim maker of Tanuki and other people in team are expert at making Kibata fabrics and also constructing clothes with it. Something that might work for a size 31, but it failed for other sizes. So denim results with strange fit issues like pockets do not work or rise that is too short, or lack of flexibility in areas where a person moves. This does not work because shrinkage does not work evenly with different sizes in Kibata. Other Japanese brands have taken cuts from famous European brands, broken it apart and tried to copy the cuts using Kibata. People treat like normal fabric but Kibata does not act like normal fabrics. “Working with Kibata (Japan raw denim) is very difficult. I was let in on some of their secrets and this is what I can share with you. I was lucky enough to talk with a member of this secret group and attempted peel back some of the mystery of Tanuki. What matters is that we are here to maintain an art(form)…” ~ Tanuki What matters is that we are taking the past and looking forward. What matters is that we have brought back traditions… What matters is that we brought back fabrics no one has seen in over three decades. Their secret fabrics are upgraded and refined versions of original, highly sought after japanese denim that has not been available for three decades. Now they have formed a small group to combine all of their expertise to make Japanese denim like the world has never seen before. This small group of denim industry veterans keep their identity secret. They have been the experts behind some of the top Japanese denim brands, slowly perfecting the art of Kibata (Japan raw denim). They were there when Japan first started making denim. With over 30 years of experience in every aspect of the denim making process. It is my honor to be the first to review Tanuki. Meet Tanuki, a secret coalition of denim masters. The shorter inseam and and a slightly less drastic taper create a very balanced cut in my eyes.Every once in a while you find yourself in the right place, at the right time, and you find something special. The OTMT rise might look high on paper, but I find that you can wear it lower without creating a weird silhouette or a restrictive feel. When I wear it lower, I feel that the thigh waist ratio isn’t working great for my body type. I cannot wear the high tapered as high as I probably should. Small differences matter more than people would think, especially when it comes to proportions and ratios. I own the Ten High Tapered from them and I would like to attempt something of an analysis why this cut is something Tanuki needed to do: I spoke with a friend who said, the measurements don’t look that different from Tanuki’s high tapered. The shorter inseam (-4cm compared to the high tapered) is something that comes in handy for me as I don’t have the longest legs anyway. ![]() The thighs are roughly 2cm wider which adds a lot of mobility and comfort to this. I think I am pretty versed in most things Tanuki, so I will just go out on a limb and say this is a new cut! The rise is slightly lower than the high tapered (roughly a cm) but it’s the wide thighs that make all the difference. You know what, screw it, I am not even ashamed to say that :D The thing that might be interesting for some of you is the cut. It will sound like a fetish, but it’s hard to stop touching this fabric. It honestly looks like the the slubby yarns are having a fight or something. Not much to say about the fabric itself: most people who have handled this iteration of the secret denim will probably agree that this is something else. I tend to write too much so I will try to keep this short. I recently had a lengthy discussion about tapered vs high tapered cuts from Tanuki and when I went to Tanuki’s web shop, I found this pair that I have not seen announced anywhere.
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